Legendary Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American on Everest, Dies at 97
Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest in 1963, passed away at 97 on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. His family remembered him as a warm optimist who inspired countless adventurers. Whittaker’s historic ascent alongside Nawang Gombu ignited nationwide interest in mountaineering. He later joined REI as its first full-time employee and went on to serve as president and CEO, helping the outdoor co-op’s membership nearly quadruple. He championed conservation throughout his life, lending crucial testimony to establish North Cascades National Park, the Pasayten Wilderness, and Redwood National Park. In 1990, he led an international peace climb on Everest, uniting climbers from the U.S., the Soviet Union, and China in a gesture of goodwill. A close friend of the Kennedys, Whittaker climbed Mount Kennedy with Robert F. Kennedy. He began climbing as a Boy Scout with his twin brother Lou, who died in 2024. He is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts, and their three sons.
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